The sun was high in the sky and the pretty, English countryside rolled by outside the windows. We were on our way to Corfe Castle in Dorset. And we were camping so this was technically more than one day out.
It’s fair to say that camping in England is a bit weather dependent. And also a bit dependent on who you are camped next to, and the state of the toilets and showers. We once stayed in a small campsite where the shower, only toilet cubicle and sink for washing dishes was all in one, small hut. The noises…
Camping at Downshay Farm
We didn’t have any such worries when we arrived, after a long drive through winding Dorset roads, at Downshay Farm. The friendly family checked us in; then we had the pick of a large site with spectacular views of the Corfe valley. Sweeping fields and meadow lead down to Corfe itself and the splintered, broken towers of Corfe Castle. In the distance, the gentle, green hills of the opposite side of the valley nurture copses that stand against the blue sky like tufts of hair.
It is a fantastic place for just sitting with binoculars and watching the world. Birds of prey hover and dive over the patchwork fields. An occasional steam train hoots and screeches on its way to Corfe station and beyond, clouds of billowing steam rising from the engine. Quiet villages sit half-hidden behind forest and fields. The lights of cottages blink on as dusk falls and the smell of woodsmoke gathers in the air. Then spotlights blaze around the castle walls, illuminating them in eery yellows and blues.
Although we were a bit far from the campsite facilities they were worth the walk, and it was nice to see the changing aspect of the scenery. Our young son enjoyed making friends and exploring the campsite. Thanks to the amount of space, we weren’t on top of anyone else. If you are used to camping in countries with more space, crowded British campsites can feel like you have the world on top of you vying for their slice of sun and a barbecued burger.
Visiting Corfe Castle
There is a long and storied history to Corfe Castle, which sadly ended in it being mostly destroyed in the English Civil War. Nevertheless, there is still plenty to see and English Heritage has done a great job at providing attractions on the castle grounds.
After getting a jump-start from the farmer (apparently car batteries can’t recharge that many iPads without going flat), we drove down to Corfe where we parked in the pretty village. There are lots of shops and tea rooms here to while away the hours, though the star attraction is the castle. You will need to enter with a National Trust membership or day ticket. It’s worth the price of admission though. Depending on the day, actors will re-enact events or run stalls and armouries. It felt exciting learning a bit about castle life and imagining we were one of the peasants!
We then climbed the flinty walls and battlements, which gave us a great view of the sweep of the surrounding countryside and the streets of the village, jostling with daytrippers.
The castle is a day in itself, but there is also plenty to do in the village. There are shops crowded with interesting souvenirs and trinkets and lots of places to indulge in a cream tea.
Getting there
Corfe Castle in Dorset is looked after by the National Trust. It’s worth thinking about joining if you are going to be visiting any other National Trust properties – this generally works out cheaper.
The closest train station is Wareham. From there, you can get the steam-powered Swanage Railway to Corfe, and then down to Swanage and back.
